连云港市妇幼保健院剖腹产需多少钱飞排名云专家

明星资讯腾讯娱乐2017年10月21日 20:03:38
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If Donald Trump is the world’s most colourful politician, Angela Merkel is probably the least. She is resolutely tedious even by the standards of German politics. The new German verb merkeln means “to do nothing, make no decisions or statement”. She never talks about a “German dream”, and you will not see her campaign under the slogan, “Make Germany great again”. 如果说唐纳德#8226;特朗普(Donald Trump)是世界上最多纷呈的政治人士,那么安格拉#8226;默克尔(Angela Merkel)很可能就是最单调乏味的那个。即使按照德国政坛的标准,她也是绝对乏味的。德文新动词“merkeln”的意思是“什么也不做、什么决定也不作出、什么声明也不发表”。她从不谈论“德国梦”,你也不会看到她的竞选活动喊出“让德国再次伟大起来”的口号。 Even when she suddenly opened Germany’s borders to more than one million people last summer, she phrased this quixotic act in pragmatic language: “Wir schaffen das,” “We can do this.” Germany’s centre has largely held since, despite big advances for the anti-immigrant Alternative für Deutschland in last Sunday’s regional elections. Even amid the migrant crisis, most mainstream German politicians have remained boring pragmatists. Their aim: very slowly improve most people’s lives a little, while averting disaster. 即使是在去年夏天她突然向100多万人开放德国国境的时候,她谈及这种唐吉坷德式行为所用的语言也是务实的:“我们可以做这个”(Wir schaffen das)。自那以来德国的中间立场主流大体上保持下来,尽管反移民的德国新选择党(Alternative für Deutschland)在最近的地区选举中取得重大进展。即使是在移民危机期间,大多数主流德国政治人士也依然是乏味的务实者。他们的目标是:非常缓慢地渐渐改善大多数人的生活,同时避免灾难。 That distinguishes Germany from other large countries. In the US, France and Russia, politics is couched in the language of dreams, greatness, heroes and utopia. There are pragmatic political cultures and utopian ones, and, oddly, it’s the pragmatists who get closer to utopia. 这把德国和其他大国区分开来。在美国、法国和俄罗斯,政治都是用有关梦想、伟大、英雄和乌托邦的语言来包装的。世界上有务实的政治文化、也有乌托邦主义的政治文化,吊诡的是,更接近乌托邦的是务实者。 Utopian politicians raise high expectations that they can only disappoint. Every American president campaigns as a great leader who will restore the American dream but then governs in prose. Pretty soon people start complaining that he hasn’t delivered the American dream, but of course he hasn’t: by definition, dreams are not reality. 乌托邦主义的政治人士提出了很高的期望,但他们只会让人们失望。每个美国总统在竞选时都将自己宣扬为能够重建美国梦的伟大领袖,然而施政时还得回归现实。很快人们开始抱怨他没有兑现美国梦——但他当然不会:顾名思义,梦想不是现实。 Utopians rarely improve people’s lives a little. That’s partly because they are guided by hallowed old documents rather than by modern best practice. A daft old document such as the Communist Manifesto is particularly damaging but even a wise one such as the American constitution often misleads. For instance, the main reason the US has more than 30,000 gun deaths a year is the second amendment, adopted in 1791. 乌托邦主义者鲜少能让人们的生活得到渐渐改善。部分原因是他们以被推上神坛的古老文献为指导,而不是依据现代的最佳实践。像《共产党宣言》(Communist Manifesto)这样愚蠢的陈旧文献的破坏性尤其大,但即使是像《美国宪法》这样的明智文献,往往也会误导人。比如,美国每年死于的人超过3万,其主要原因就是1791年生效的第二修正案。 French politics, too, is packed with misleading old verities. One — derived from the French Revolution — is that “the people” should always be mounting the barricades to thwart the government. Another verity, treasured by the French left, is that “the workers” (imagined as figures in a socialist realist statue) must fight anything proposed by “the bosses” (imagined as top-hatted capitalists in a 19th-century cartoon). 法国政治也充斥着误导人的陈旧信念。其中一条来自法国大革命,“人民”永远都应该竖起路障阻挠政府。另一条信念被法国左翼视若珍宝,内容是“工人”(想象成社会主义写实雕像中的人物形象)必须反对“老板”(想象成19世纪漫画中戴着高帽的资本家形象)提议的任何事情。 Most utopians don’t even strive to improve people’s lives. They aim for something greater. Russia annexed the Crimea to regain imperial greatness, and no matter that western sanctions then made Russian lives worse. 大多数乌托邦主义者甚至不会费神去改善人民的生活。他们的目标是更加宏大的东西。俄罗斯吞并克里米亚是为了恢复帝国荣光,哪怕西方的制裁让俄罗斯人的生活更加艰难。 In Germany, by contrast, dreams of greatness have been taboo since 1945. The first postwar chancellor Konrad Adenauer campaigned under the slogan: “No Experiments”. A later successor, Helmut Schmidt, famously advised: “Anyone who has visions should go to the doctor.” 相比之下,在德国,关于伟大的梦想在1945年以后一直是禁忌。战后的第一任德国总理康拉德#8226;阿登纳(Konrad Adenauer)的竞选口号是:“不做实验”。后来的继任者赫尔穆特#8226;施密特(Helmut Schmidt)给出了著名的建议:“有想象力的人都应该去看医生。” Merkel got an additional anti-utopian inoculation: she spent her first 35 years in a failed utopia, East Germany. She rarely tells her own story, perhaps for fear of sounding inspirational, but she graduated from Karl Marx University in Leipzig, and later, for her physics PhD, had to write an additional “Marxist-Leninist” thesis. Her topic: the farmer-worker relationship in the farmer-worker state. She got a bad grade for overemphasising the farmers. 默克尔本人还得到了一剂额外的反乌托邦主义预防针:她人生的头35年是在东德,也就是一个失败的乌托邦里度过的。她很少诉说自己的生平故事,可能是担心听起来引人遐想,但她从莱比锡卡尔马克思大学(Karl Marx University)毕业,之后为了自己的物理学士学位,她还不得不额外撰写一篇“马列主义”论文。她的论文题目是“工农国家的工农关系”。因为过于强调农民,她的得分很低。 Freedom for Merkel means freedom from ideology, explains her German biographer Stefan Kornelius. She is the politician as wonk: facts and analyses rather than stirring rhetoric. Asked once on TV what the word “Germany” inspired in her, she replied: “Pretty, airtight windows.” 默克尔的德文传记作者斯蒂凡#8226;柯内琉斯(Stefan Kornelius)解释称,对默克尔来说,自由意味着不受意识形态桎梏的自由。她是关注政策细节类型的政治人士:比起令人心潮澎湃的言论,她更看重事实和分析。有一次,默克尔在电视节目上被问及“德国”这个词会让她想起什么,她回答:“精美、挡风的窗户。” Most northern European political cultures are similarly boring. I grew up in the Netherlands in the 1980s under another Christian Democratic leader, Ruud Lubbers, of whom it was said that when he from the Bible at party meetings it sounded like a cookbook. After 10 years in office he boasted: “I have made the Netherlands duller.” 类似的,欧洲北部多数国家的政治文化都很乏味。我在上世纪80年代的荷兰长大,当时另一位基督教民主党人鲁德#8226;吕贝尔斯(Ruud Lubbers)任荷兰首相。据说,这位领袖在党内会议上朗读《圣经》的时候,听起来就像在读一本烹饪书。在任10年后他自豪地说:“我让荷兰更乏味了。” Britain has shuffled towards this boring pragmatic tradition. Quietly and gradually, the country has dropped “Great” from its name. Even Brexit campaigners aren’t selling imperial dreams; instead, they depict a plucky little England signing trade deals alone. Luckily, the UK has an escape valve that American politics lacks: all British fairytale fantasies can be projected on to the royals. That allows the prime minister to be just a functionary. 英国也在缓慢地转向这种乏味的务实传统。这个国家悄然之间渐渐把“大”字从国名中去掉了。甚至连退欧运动的活动人士也不兜售帝国美梦;相反,他们描绘了一个英勇的小英格兰独立签署贸易协定的前景。幸运的是,英国有一个美国政治缺乏的安全阀:所有的英国童话幻想都可以投射到皇室成员身上。这让首相可以只做公职人员。 Boring pragmatic functionaries often make people’s lives better. Northern European countries lead the world’s happiness rankings. Germany has cut unemployment to a historic low of 6.2 per cent without trashing its welfare state. 乏味务实的官员往往会让人们的生活更好。欧洲北方国家在全世界的幸福指数排名中名列前茅。德国在没有放弃福利国家体制的情况下,已将失业率降至6.2%的历史低点。 But the pragmatists’ greatest achievement goes unseen: averting disaster. In John le Carré’s novel A Small Town in Germany, a British diplomat calls this his lifetime mission. He says, “Every night, as I go to sleep, I say to myself: another day achieved. Another day added to the unnatural life of a world on its deathbed. And if I never relax, if I never lift my eye, we may run on for another hundred years.” 但人们还忽略了务实者的最大成就:避祸。在约翰#8226;勒卡雷(John Le Carre)的小说《德国小镇》(A Small Town in Germany)中,一名英国外交官把这称为他毕生的使命。他说,“每天夜里,在我入睡之前,我对自己说:我又完成了一天。为这个迈向灭亡的世界违背自然的寿命延长了一天。如果我永远不放松,永远不抬起双眼,我们可能继续存续100年。” Germans understand the sentiment. They experienced complete collapse in 1945, and then again under Merkel’s eyes in East Germany in 1989. She once said she possessed “competence in the early detection of collapsing systems”. When it looked as if the euro would collapse she told Bulgaria’s prime minister Boyko Borisov that the “Maya and other civilisations” had disappeared. In other words, today’s Europe could too. Her heroic task: keep politics boring. 德国人理解这样的情感。他们在1945年经历了彻底崩溃,在1989年的东德又经历了一次,后一次是默克尔本人亲眼所见。她曾说,她拥有“在早期发现系统崩溃的胜任能力”。在欧元区看起来即将解体的时候,她曾告诉保加利亚总理伊科#8226;鲍里索夫(Boyko Borisov),“玛雅和其他文明”消失了。换句话说,今天的欧洲也可能重蹈覆辙。她的英雄使命:让政治继续乏味下去。 /201603/434364What began as a bid to cover up a nasty skin condition has resulted into a Guiness World Record for an American who has been named the most tattooed woman in the world.最开始本想用纹身遮住丑陋的皮肤的一名美国女子,最后身上的纹身越来越多甚至打破了吉尼斯纪录,成为了全世界纹身最多的女人。Julia Gnuse - nicknamed the #39;illustrated lady#39; - has 95 per cent of her body covered in ink, ranging from jungle scenes and cartoons to her favourite actors.朱莉亚·吉娜斯--绰号“插图女郎”--全身95%的皮肤被纹身覆盖,纹身图案包括丛林里的场景和卡通人物,还有她最爱的演员。Miss Gnuse, from California, started getting tattoos on her legs after developing a skin condition called porphyria, which causes the skin to blister when exposed to sunlight.吉娜斯来自加州,她以前曾得过一种叫卟啉症(患上这种病的人,皮肤暴露在阳光下就会起水泡)的病,为了遮住腿上的皮肤她开始在腿上纹身。She then turned her attention to her stomach, arms and back and before long was addicted to body art.她后来又在肚子上、手臂上和背上纹纹身,并长期沉迷于身体艺术之中。In an interview, Miss Gnuse said although the ink did not stop her skin from blistering, it covered up the scars and allowed her to be exposed to the sun.在一次采访中,茱莉亚表示,尽管纹身没有让她的皮肤不起水泡,但是纹身遮住了她皮肤上的伤疤,使得她敢把皮肤暴露在太阳光之下。#39;I did this for the reason of covering scarring from the blisters. They get as deep as three degree burn,#39; she said. #39;I had a friend who is a plastic surgeon, who suggested tattooing my skin the same color to the scarring that I had, seeing if we can match my just pale-looking skin that I had. That didn#39;t work. We tried it. It was very difficult to match that. So I had the idea of a colorful tattoo, then I got hooked. I got addicted.#39;她说道:“我之所以这么做,原因是想遮盖住由水泡产生的伤疤,这些伤疤被认定为三级烧伤。我有一个朋友是整形医生,他建议我用肤色一样的颜色纹身,从而遮盖住我的这些伤疤,看是否能让伤疤处的颜色变得跟我苍白的肤色一样。但是那样做却没有作用。我们尝试过了。要想让伤疤和正常皮肤的颜色一致是一件非常困难的事情。所以我想到了纹色的纹身,之后我就迷上了纹身了。我对纹身上瘾了。”Miss Gnuse said there was medication available for her condition, but said taking it could have placed her at risk of blindness.茱莉亚还表示,有一种药物适用于她的病情,但是如果用这种药物,她就有失明的风险。 /201608/458999

  

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  Zhao Dan (1915 ~1980)赵丹(1915 ~ 1980)Zhao Dan, born in Zhao Feng Chao in Nan Tong city, Jiangsu Province, whose ancestor hometown was in Feicheng, Shandong Province, was one of the most acclaimed and accomplished actors in Chinese film history.赵丹,原名赵凤朝,原籍山东肥城,出生于江苏南通,中国电影史上最卓越的男演员之一。He was fascinated with film and drama since childhood,which he spent in a theater that his father owned. In 1932,Li Pingqian, a famous director of Star Film Studio, took a fancy to him and made him act a rich playboy in silent film The Spring Dream of the Lute. Since then he became a basic actor in Star and starred in over 20 films like Twenty-Four Hours in Shanghai, Three Sisters, Go to Northwest, Nation#39;s Soul, Crossroad, Street Angel, etc. Since 1933, of which Crossroad and Street Angel Zhao played in 1936 and 1937, were two pieces that early revealed his talent. At the same time, he starred in world famous dramas such as Nala, Big Thunderstorm and Romeo and Juliet. His artistic talent in film and drama made him soon become an attractive drama actor and film star.赵丹自幼着迷影剧,童年在父亲开的剧院里度过。1932年被明星影片公司著名导演李萍倩看中,在无声片《琵琶春怨》中扮演一执跨子弟,从此成为明星影片公司的基本演员。1933年起,他先后参加拍摄了《上海二十四小时》、《三》、《到西北去》、《热血忠魂》、《十字街头》、《马路天使》等20多部影片。其中,1936年和1937年他主演的《十字街头》与《马路天使》是最早表现出他才华的优秀作品。与此同时,他还在世界名剧《娜拉》、《大雷雨》、《罗密欧与朱丽叶》中饰演主角。在影、剧两个方面露出的艺术才华,使他很快成为一名引人注目的话剧演员和电影明星。After the war broke out, Zhao began a creative relationship with director Zheng Junli, with the 1948 anti-Kuomintang drama-comedy, Crows and Sparrows which was the symbol of his performing arts. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, his playing historical figures in biographical films made his performing arts reach its peak. The three figures of Nie Er, Lin Zexu and Li Shizhen have been the immortal artistic images in Chinese film gallery.战争爆发后,他于1948年在反国民党的戏剧喜剧《乌鸦与麻雀》中与导演郑君里合作,该片是他表演艺术成熟的标志。五、六十年代,他在《李时珍》、《林则徐》、《聂耳》这三部传记影片中塑造的历史人物形象,达到当时我国表演艺术的高峰。李时珍、林则徐,聂耳这三个人物都成为中国电影画廊中不朽的艺术形象。Zhao Dan was a successful performing artist with many outstanding achievements. In the several decades of his film career, he appeared in 35 films, portrayed a series of brilliant roles. In 1995#39;s centennial commemoration of the birth of world film and 90 years of Chinese film, Zhao Dan was posthumously awarded the “Centennial Award” as one of the best actors in Chinese film.赵丹是我国卓有成就的表演艺术家。在他几十年的艺术生涯中,一共拍摄了35部故事片,塑造了一系列光辉的艺术形象。1995年,赵丹获得为纪念世界电影诞生100周年和中国电影诞生90周年而特设的中国电影“世纪奖”最佳男演 员奖。 /201605/443522

  The restaurant business is a tough game - according to a study by Cornell University about 30% fail in their first year. So it#39;s not surprising that restaurants have certain tactics to keep costs down and diner numbers up.餐馆业的竞争十分激烈--据康奈尔大学的一项研究显示:30%的餐馆在营业第一年就会倒闭。所以餐馆用一些策略降低成本、吸引更多的顾客,也就没有什么大惊小怪的了。Here are some of the ways eateries ensure success, according to Imogen Edwards-Jones (and her anonymous insider), who wrote the book Restaurant Babylon, available from Amazon.Imogen Edwards-Jones(和她的匿名内部人士)写了一本叫做《巴比伦餐厅》的书,亚马逊网站上即可购买。据她所述,小饭馆有一些确保成功的方法。DINERS WHO BOOK BY PHONE ARE PREFERRED…打电话预订的顾客优先……Apparently, people who book by email are less likely to show up so restaurants prefer customers who call to reserve a table. Email bookers also tend to be computer-literate and that may mean they#39;re a blogger or a reviewer - always a worry for restaurants. They#39;re also harder to track down if they leave without paying.很显然,用邮件预约的客人不太可能会来餐馆吃饭,所以电话预约的客人有优先权。用邮件预约的人也往往会使用电脑,所以他/她可能是位客或员--对餐馆来说总是个担忧。如果他们吃完不付钱就走,也很难再找到他们。…AND SO ARE PEOPLE WHO JUST WALK UP直觉来餐馆的客人也同样优先An increasing number of restaurants don#39;t take bookings, or only offer a small number of reservations. This is, in part, because eateries can #39;turn a table#39; three times with walk-in diners, while customers who book tend to stick around for longer. This policy can work against restaurants, however - it can be harder to move diners on if there#39;s no subsequent booking for their table.越来越多的餐馆不接受提前预约,或者只提供少量的预约桌。部分是因为提前预约的客人往往会停留的更久一点,而同样的时间内,直接来吃的客人可能已经换了三批了。然而,这个策略可能也会不利于餐馆--如果没有人陆续预约,那么餐馆很难继续经营下去。LUNCH DELIBERATELY TAKES LONGER故意让午餐更久一点Because everyone wants to eat lunch at the same time -restaurants are likely to stagger bookings, keep you waiting for your table, or get waiting staff to chat to you so the kitchen can take the strain.因为所有人都想在同一时间吃午餐--餐馆很可能会交错安排预约,让你一直在等待,或者让工作人员与你聊天,这样厨房就可以不用那么热火朝天了。VIPS AND PRETTY WOMEN GET BETTER SEATS贵宾和美女的座位更好The more attractive or famous you are the more likely you are to be seated at the front of the venue. Dating couples and overweight businessmen tend to get relegated to the back.越有魅力、越出名的人就越有可能坐在餐馆的前排位置。约会的情侣和肥胖的商人们往往坐的位置比较靠后。CHEAPER RESTAURANTS ARE OFTEN A FALSE ECONOMY便宜的餐馆通常都是虚假节约You may not be able to afford to spend a fortune on an upmarket meal but you could be getting better value for money if you do. Ingredients, staff, linen, flowers and rent all have to be factored into the pricing of dishes.可能你去不起高档饭店吃饭,但如果你去了可以让钱花的更有所值。配料、员工、桌布、鲜花以及租金都涵盖在了菜价内。译文属 /201608/461786The National Congress of the Party党的全国代表大会The 18th National Congress of the Communist Party of China中国共产党第十八次全国代表大会Central Committee中央委员会General Secretary of the Central Committee中央委员会总书记Members of the Central Committee中央委员Alternate members of the Central Committee中央候补委员Central Commission for Discipline Inspection中央纪律检查委员会Political Bureau of the Central Committee中央政治局Standing Committee of the Political Bureau中央政治局常务委员会Military Commission of the Central Committee中央军事委员会Secretariat of the Central Committee中央书记处General Office of the CPC Central Committee中共中央办公厅Organization Department of the CPC Central Committee中共中央组织部(中组部)Publicity Department of the CPC Central Committee中共中央宣传部(中宣部)ed Front Work Department of the CPC中共中央统一战线工作部International Department of the CPC Central Committee中共中央对外联系部(中联部)Policy Research Office of the CPC Central Committee中共中央政策研究室International Communication Office of the CPC Central Committee中共中央对外宣传办公室Compilation and Translation Bureau of the CPC Central Committee中共中央编译局Party History Research Center of the CPC Central Committee中共中央党史研究室Party School of the CPC Central Committee中共中央党校local Party congress党的地方代表大会CPC Local Committees地方党委Provincial (aut. regional, municipality) committees of the CPC中共省(自治区、直辖市)委员会(省委)Prefectural (aut. prefectural) committees of the CPC中共地区(自治州)委员会(地委)City Committee of the CPC中共市委员会(市委)District committee of the CPC 中共区委员会(区委)County committee of the CPC中共县委员会(县委)National People#39;s Congress (NPC)全国人民代表大会Standing Committee of the NPC全国人民代表大会常委会Chinese People#39;s Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC)中国人民政治协商会议National Committee of the CPPCC政协全国委员会 /201607/452405

  

  Yang Liuqing New Year Pictures杨柳青年画One of China#39;s three famous folk New Year picture styles,Yang Liuqing New Year Pictures originated in Yang Liuqing Town,in the western suburbs of Tianjin City, in the early 17th century. Adopting the method of integrating block printing and hand-colored decoration,they are characterized by varied themes such as brightness, vivacity, happiness, auspiciousness and fascination. The pictures by the young people in Yang Liuqing have enjoyed a high reputation in China.在17世纪初,中国三大著名民间年画的风格之一的杨柳青年画起源于天津市西郊的杨柳青镇。采用集成雕版印刷和手工着色装饰的方法,它们的特点是有不同的主题,如明亮,活泼,快乐,吉祥和有魅力。做这些年画的杨柳青的年轻人在中国都享有很高的声誉。 /201608/461637

  

  It may sounds like yet another ;out-there; diet, but cicadas are actually one of the most popular summertime dishes in eastern China#39;s Zhejiang province, especially in the city of Lishui.听起来这又像是一道;黑暗料理;,不过知了在中国东部的浙江省,尤其是丽水市,可是夏季最流行的小吃。;Cicadas are high in protein and low in fat; eating cicadas in appropriate quantities is also good for plants and other flora. The only problem is that most of the cicadas people eat now are wild, so it is important to ensure that the cicadas are fully cooked in case of parasites,; said professor Mo Jianchu from Zhejiang University.浙江大学教授莫建初表示:;知了含有高蛋白低脂肪,吃掉适量的知了对植物生长也有一定好处。唯一的问题是,人们吃的知了大多数都是野生的,会携带一些寄生虫,所以烹饪的时候一定要烧熟、烧透。;Jiang Yongchun, a manager from a local food company, explained that people in rural Lishui have been eating cicadas for many years. Around the end of 1980s, cicadas become a common dish in restaurants. Usually it is a seasonal dish, served from June to September.当地一家食品公司总经理蒋永春表示,丽水农村很早就有人吃蝉。从上世纪80年代末开始,蝉出现在了酒店的菜谱上。通常这是一道时令菜肴,基本在6月到9月提供。During busy times, Jiang said he can sell over 1 ton of cicadas in one day. There are at least six to seven cicada dealers in Lishui, and their daily sales total is between 6 and 7.5 tons.蒋永春说,旺季时知了每天的批发量达1千多公斤。在丽水,专门从事知了批发生意的经销商有6到7家,每天的批发量共1.2万至1.5万斤。According to these statistics, people in Lishui consume billions of cicadas in the roughly 80 days of ;cicada season.;根据初步估算,在6月到9月这80天的;知了季;里,丽水人会吃掉上亿只知了。Because of this extensive consumption, the cicadas people eat in Lishui come also from Quzhou, and even some places in Jiangxi province.由于消费量的扩大,丽水这几年还转向浙江衢州甚至江西等地收购。;Capturing cicadas in appropriate amounts is actually good for the growth of vegetation, though overconsumption does have an impact on the ecological chain. But so far the population has not been influenced, since the cicadas are not only from Lishui but also other places,; professor Mo explained.莫教授对此表示:;尽管过量消费确实会对生态链产生影响,但是适量的捕食知了对蔬菜的生长还是有利的。由于知了不仅来自丽水还来自其他地方,所以迄今为止并未受到影响。; /201607/455174

  Throughout this fashion season, I’ve been asking anyone and everyone what they think will be the future of fashion and specifically, the shows. The question was precipitated by announcements from Burberry and Tom Ford that they would be shifting their runway presentations in future to a “y-to-buy” model whereby, rather than the normal six-month interval, items seen on the catwalk will go on sale immediately online and in store. If widely adopted, it would mark a huge shift in the industry towards a more commodity-based show schedule. It also presents many questions of what the fashion show should be — or whether we even need one.在今年的时装季期间,我就时尚、尤其是时装周的未来问遍了业内各色人以及各家品牌,立马得到了柏利(Burberry)与汤姆#8226;福特(Tom Ford)的反馈:它们未来将把重心从T型台发布会转向“展后即卖”( “y-to-buy”)模式,即时装从秀场展示到销售不再有6个月时间差,而是在T型台展出后、直接在网店及实体门店销售。如果这种做法广为推行,则标志着时尚界的惊天巨变——着眼于更注重产品销售的时装秀模式;这同样引发诸多问题:时装周该何去何从、抑或甚至说我们是否还需要它。From designer to chief executive, and from buyer to publicist, the responses have been as varied as the many different business models that might allow for the new world order. Some have embraced the idea as a necessary step to keep fashion moving forward and the customer engaged. Others have been alarmed: they argue that the time it takes for stock to arrive in store is vital in building desire in the consumer, and that the new approach would crush the wholesale system — and thereby the nascent fashion labels which depend on those early orders that make production possible.无论从设计师到创意总监、还是从买家到公关人员,他们的反馈形形色色,就如同因应时尚界全新格局而派生出的商业模式一样五花八门。有些人赞同上述理念,认为这是让时尚业不断发展以及消费者深度参与其中的必由之路;其他人则感到恐慌:他们认为货源从预订到门店销售的时间差对于巩固消费者的需求至关重要,并认为新的销售模式会摧毁整个批发体系——因而祸及那些初创品牌,而它们的生产与这些先期订单相向而行。Some designers can’t wait to have a more immediate dialogue with their clients. Others worry that without the final deadline of a show which everyone attends, and the introduction instead of a rolling schedule of presentations for the different buyers, journalists, magazine editors and stylists that must see the clothes, their work may never be done.有些设计师心急火燎地想让自己设计的时装“直通”消费者;而其他设计师则担心:如果没有人人参与的有时间限期的时装周和吹风会(应向不同买家、记者、时尚杂志主编以及设计师同行一场接一场地举行时装发布会),他们的设计工作永远无法完成。“It’s a mess,” said Karl Lagerfeld in Milan. “I need a final deadline in order to keep my creative sanity,” said Coach creative head Stuart Vevers in New York. “I need to protect my wholesale orders,” said designer Christopher Kane in London.身在米兰的老佛爷(Karl Lagerfeld)说:“这样做会乱了套”。身在纽约的蔻驰(Coach)创意总监图尔特#8226;维佛斯(Stuart Vevers)说:“我需要时装周的时间表以保持自己永不衰竭的创造活力。”而身在伦敦的克里斯托弗#8226;凯恩(Christopher Kane)则说:“我得确保自己的批发订单。”I write this at day 25 of the season. At this point, I’ve seen around 160 shows, and about 8,000 looks. I’m not so fool as to think that everything I see will end up in a store: I’m as complicit as anyone in this industry subterfuge that pretends we’re all about to wear this stuff. But the show is about so much more than product.今年的时装周,我观看了大约160场发布会,欣赏了约8000款时装。我还不至于如此愚钝:自己看到的所有时装最后都会拿到门店销售:我与大家一样对业界的骗人鬼话“沆瀣一气”——谎称自己有朝一日都会穿这些时装。但时装周的意义远远超过时装本身。Michael Burke, chief executive of Louis Vuitton, was emphatic on the sanctity of the show when I met with him last week. “Our model of business is aly y-to-buy in that most of our sales are in the pre-collections which go in store without a show,” he argued of the huge commercial collections never seen on a catwalk that arrive in shops in May and December and make up the vast majority of sales.我不久前采访路易威登CEO迈克尔#8226;伯克(Michael Burke)时,他认为时装周的至高无上地位不容置疑。“我们的经营模式早已是展后即卖,原因就在于我们销售的大多数时装是不经过秀场展示而直接在门店销售的季前系列。”他为去年五月与12月大量从未在T型台展示而直接进店销售、占据绝大多数销售份额的时装如此争辩道。Louis Vuitton is one of the handful of brands which presents some off-schedule pre-collections (known as “cruise”). Most other brands quietly slip their pre-collection orders in-store after negotiating independently with the buyers.路易威登(Louis Vuitton)是推出计划外季前系列装(即“cruise”季)的其中一家品牌(真正饯行者屈指可数)。多数品牌与买家单独谈妥后,往往把季前装订单悄无声息“塞进”门店付诸实施。The trouble is, y-to-buy is boring. Do you want to see a show featuring 60 black cashmere sweaters? Neither do I. As Burke explains, for Louis Vuitton, “only 5 to 10 per cent of store merchandise is presented on the runway, and our catwalk collections are by definition more fashion forward and not immediately commercial when they first appear”.问题是:展后即卖模式容易让人腻烦。诸位会爱看一场展示60款黑色羊绒衫的时装发布会吗?我也一样。正如伯克如此为路易威登辩解道,“门店销售产品只有5-10%在T型台上展示过,而我们在T型台上首次展出的时装更趋前卫,并不着眼于即时销售。”“For us, the show is not about commercial product. It’s about being transgressive and remaining interesting. So that we have something to talk about. So that it presents a total vision that will then filter down through to the consumer through to the various dialogues that are then had — in print, within the ad campaigns and in magazines.”“对我们来说,秀场并非注重销售类时装。它关乎大胆前卫的同时又让时尚拥趸痴迷不已;其目的就是娓娓道出时尚故事,呈现时尚总体画卷,而后潜移默化影响消费者,再借助专著、广告造势活动以及时尚杂志不断引发时尚观点的交流互动。”“Fashion is the most contemporary form of art,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (Italy’s chamber for fashion). The show is fashion’s theatre: a 10-minute vignette of what a brand represents and where it’s going next. It’s quick, short, powerful and when done well, or especially badly, it sears an image on to your brain in a way that can’t be replicated on a screen or in a showroom.“时尚是最新的艺术形式。”意大利时尚协会(Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana)主席卡洛斯#8226;卡帕斯(Carlo Capasa)说。时装周是展示时尚的舞台:短短10分钟就清晰展示了该品牌的时尚内涵以及其未来走向。它简短、生动而高效;一旦策划成功(或者说演砸了),就会让时尚拥趸“刻骨铭心”,广告片与样品陈列室的效果根本无法与其相提并论。This weekend in Paris, I saw an autobahn-set fairytale at Chalayan, an exploration of all thing “Teutonic” where models wore severed ponytails from their ear lobes, dresses embroidered with dashboard details and silks printed with old German sewing patterns; at Junya Watanabe’s “Hyper Construction”, I watched a slowly choreographed maths lesson involving geometric dresses folded in a spongy bonded polyurethane and accessorised with rubber caps and bizarrely shaped headwear.时装季中,我在巴黎观看了以德国高速公路为背景的卡拉扬(Chalayan)时装专卖场:对各种“日耳曼”时尚风格进行了尝试——走秀的模特戴着挂在耳垂的半截马尾辫、穿着绣有详尽仪表盘信息图案的裙子以及印有昔日德国针线活图纹的真丝装;在渡边淳弥(Junya Watanabe)的Hyper Construction时装发布会,我犹如看了一堂精心编排的数学课——用富有弹性的粘接型聚氨酯面料交叠而成的各种几何造型时装,再用橡胶帽以及奇形怪状的头饰来搭配。At Comme des Gar#231;ons, the models wore armadillo-type layers of material body armour and panniers all covered in beautiful, antiquey brocades. The brand’s 73-year-old designer Rei Kawakubo called the collection 18th Century Punk, “because the 18th century was a period of change and revolution. This is how I imagine punks would look like if they had lived in this century”.在Comme des Gar#231;ons发布会上,模特身穿类似犰狳的一层层盔甲面料装以及撑裙(外用复古风格的漂亮织锦覆盖)。旗下73岁的设计师川久保玲(Rei Kawakubo)称此系列为18世纪的朋克艺术,“因为18世纪是风起云涌的变革年代。这就是我设想朋克生活在18世纪的模样”。Comme des Gar#231;ons’s annual revenues currently stand at 0m. And that’s not because the brand’s about to sell a lot of brocade cocoons or vast layered pink vinyl jackets. It sells a lot of quirky black clothes, stripy T-shirts and esoteric fragrances. Many features of this punk collection will percolate through into the commercial offering seen in store: the pink suit jacket will be stripped back; the brocades turned into blouses. But people will buy those simpler commercial pieces because they believe in the authenticity of Kawakubo’s art, and want a piece of her vision. To my mind, delivering that vision in 17 extraordinary, outlandish looks is the simplest, most effective way of doing business.Comme des Gar#231;ons目前的年销售额高达2.6亿美元。这并非由于他们打算大量售卖织锦料“茧形装”(cocoon)以及乙烯基面料的粉色层状夹克装。相反,他们的销售额来自于大卖风格怪异的黑色装、条纹T恤衫以及千奇百怪的香水。这个朋克系列时装的诸多时尚特点会潜移默化渗透至门店销售的各款时装中去:粉色西外套会退场,织锦会做成短上衣。但消费者会出手购买门店销售的那些简约装,原因是他们喜欢真正的川久保玲风格,希望拥有体现其其设计理念的款式。在本人看来,用17种不同寻常的另类款式展现自己的设计理念是最经济、也是最有效的行销模式。Yet not all shows are so removed from their commercial outcome. At Isabel Marant, 44 early-1980s punk rockers walked out in shiny red leathers, oversized tweed coats and big cat prints; clothes and accessories that will surely be exactly the same when they arrive in store. Marant is an expert merchandiser and her clothes are designed to walk off the catwalk into the closet. Her collection was highly marketable, and a little less memorable for it.然而,并非所有时装秀场都如此不接实际销售的地气。在伊莎贝尔#8226;玛兰(Isabel Marant)的发布会上,44位朋克摇滚乐手身穿红色闪亮皮装、特型粗花呢大衣以及印有大猫图案的时装走秀;所售装款式与配饰都与门店完全一样。玛兰是经营方面的行家里手,她设计的装就是为了让消费者“接盘”;她设计的时装供不应求,其纪念意义则稍逊一筹。At Céline, however, designer Phoebe Philo has brilliantly occupied the space in which artistic and commercial currency coexist. Her show, staged between tiered neon seats at the Tennis Club de Paris, was full of editors wearing items from her SS16 collection, often the exact kind of difficult designs — bovver boots, curve-waisted coats in a mustardy tweed — that take a while to reach maturation in the consumer mind.但在Céline的秀场,设计师菲比#8226;菲罗(Phoebe Philo)完美地实现了艺术效果与商业效益兼得。她的时装秀在巴黎网球俱乐部(Tennis Club de Paris)一排排荧光座椅间举办,各路时尚主编身穿其设计的2016年春夏季时装济济一堂,她们常常身穿那些需要一定时日才能让普通拥趸首肯的另类装束——长至小腿的厚重靴、用深黄色粗花呢料做的弧形高腰大衣。Ironic, perhaps, that since an in-house statement stipulating Philo will be staying at Céline for the immediate future, her AW16 show was a study in “possibilities: the possibilities inherent in the wardrobe, in the woman, and in life”. The palette was stripped right back to blacks, beiges and yellow: a canary coloured furry coat provided the only real clout of colour, while the silhouette was trapezoid, layered and liberated. Tunic dresses, sheer and oversized, were worn over wide-flared trousers and silky, 10-denier knit tops wrapped over shirts. As with Balenciaga, there were lots of trenchcoats. Many were sleeveless, and left strappy and flapping. The bags were tactile, their straps wrapped around the hand like bandages.也许颇具讽刺意味的是:因为Céline正式宣称菲罗将在不久的将来继续留任创意总监一职,而她的2016年秋冬季时装秀则探讨了“时装、女性以及生活中与生俱有的可能性”。时装颜色回归黑色、浅褐色以及黄色:浅黄色毛皮大衣成了唯一真正有影响力颜色的明,而造型则呈现了不规则四边形、节层状以及无拘无束的时尚风格。轻薄的束腰特型装搭配宽喇叭裤,而极轻薄的10D真丝针织上衣(1套在内穿衬衣上。与巴黎世家(Balenciaga)一样,Céline推出了多款风衣,而很多是带有飘逸带子的无袖款风衣;推出的手袋手感好,包带可以象绷带一样缠绕于手上。“Every one of the looks was touched by hand,” said Philo, who places great emphasis on the slow build of her design process, and cares deeply about whether clothes “feel right”.“每一款装束手感都不错。”菲罗说,她特别强调精打细造,特别在意时装的“好手感”。Feeling right, doesn’t always look quite right at first. That huge silhouette, the Big Bird robe coat, the exaggerated jagged collars, the flesh-toned polo necks — they weren’t designed to be immediately accessible. It’s transgressive, but only very gently so. And thank God for that. You’ve got six months to catch up.手感好并不一定看着养眼。打造那些特型款式(Big Bird长袍外套、夸张的锯齿状衣领、以及肉色高圆领)的目的并非为了立即被消费者接受。它们显得前卫,但只是略微超前一些而已。谢天谢地,诸位还有6个月的时间去适应它们。 /201605/441913

  A healthy liver plays a key role in relieving digestive issues, such as a sluggish metabolism, gas, bloating, and constipation. It regulates blood sugar levels, which, when out of balance, can cause sugar cravings, fatigue, and fuzzy thinking.健康的肝功能对缓解消化问题,如缓慢的新陈代谢、放屁、胀气和便秘等方面扮演着重要角色。它能够调控血压水平,如果血压失去平衡,就会十分需要糖,而且还会感到疲劳、胡思乱想。A toxic liver can lead to inflammatory diseases, such as diabetes, arthritis, high blood pressure, and autoimmune diseases. Without a healthy liver, you may suffer from hormonal imbalances that can cause headaches, mood swings, and depression. It#39;s time to nurture this amazing organ with foods that help it function optimally.肝脏有毒会导致炎症疾病,例如糖尿病、关节炎、高血压和自身免疫性疾病。肝脏如果不健康,就可能导致荷尔蒙失调,这就会导致头痛、心绪波动和抑郁。现在是时候食用一些帮助优化肝脏功能的食物来滋养这一神奇的器官了。WATER水Other than oxygen, your body needs water more than any other substance, including food, just to survive. Because water flushes toxins and waste products from your body, you feel more energized and alert when you#39;re fully hydrated, and most of us often aren#39;t. Usually 8 to 10 glasses will do the trick; try these naturally flavored water recipes to start. Just don#39;t overdo it—too much water can be harmful, too.除了氧气,人体最需要的物质就是水,食物只是为了生存。因为水能冲走体内的有毒物质和废物,当你水分充足时(通常来说,大多数人喝水都不够),你会十分有活力、思维敏捷。通常8-10杯水就行了;试试看从这些天然的加味水配方开始。别太过了——水喝的太多也是有害的。And skip the ice when you#39;re drinking water between meals; your body uses energy to warm the ice, diluting important digestive enzymes.在饭点间喝水的时候不要加冰块;否则,你的身体需要用能量来温暖冰块,从而稀释了重要的消化酶。SEA VEGETABLES海带One of the oldest inhabitants of the Earth, sea vegetables detoxify your body by preventing assimilation of heavy metals as well as other environmental toxins. Studies at McGill University have revealed that a compound in brown algae (arame, kombu, and wakame) reduced the uptake of radioactive particles into bone.这是地球上最古老的栖息者之一,海带通过阻止身体吸收重金属和其它的环境毒素从而对身体排毒。麦吉尔大学进行的研究已经揭露褐藻(可食海草、海带和海藻)中的一种化合物能够减少放射性物质进入体内。GARLIC大蒜One of the oldest land-based medicinal foods on the planet, garlic contains an active sulfur-based compound called allicin, a critical supporter of liver detoxification. It helps the organ rid your body of mercury, certain food additives, and the hormone estrogen.作为地球上长在地上的最古老的药用食物,大蒜含有一种活跃的叫做蒜素的硫化合物,这是肝脏排毒的重要持者。它能够帮助器官排除体内的汞元素、一定的食物添加剂和雌激素。ONIONS洋葱Onion, shallots, and leeks have multiple health benefits. These garlic relatives contain sulfur compounds that support your liver in its production of glutathione, a compound that neutralizes free radicals.洋葱、葱和韭菜对身体的益处十分多。这些大蒜亲属含有硫化合物,能持肝脏生产谷胱甘肽,这是一种中和自由基的化合物。APPLES苹果Apples, like berries, contain powerful phenolic compounds, including flavonoids, which can fight inflammatory disease. They also contain pectin, a valuable source of soluble fiber than can help eliminate toxic buildup.和浆果一样,苹果也含有强效的酚类化合物,包括抗击炎症的黄酮类化合物。苹果也含有果胶,这是可溶性纤维的一种重要来源,能够帮助排除体内有毒物质的积累。COCONUT OIL椰子油An extremely healthy saturated fat, coconut oil is easy to digest and is almost immediately broken down by enzymes in your saliva and gastric juices. This means that your body doesn#39;t need to make fat-digesting enzymes, which puts less strain on your liver.椰子油含有十分健康的饱和脂肪,很容易消化,而且唾液酶和胃液酶能立马分解椰子油。这就意味着你的身体不需要制造消化脂肪的酶,这就减少了肝脏的压力。译文属 /201609/464637

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